🔗 Share this article The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form. This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown. "I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines." The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make wine from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations. Urban Vineyards Across the Globe To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan. "Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader. Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president. Unknown Eastern European Variety Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets." Group Activities Throughout the City The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation." The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land." Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street." Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine." "When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast." Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew." "I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers" The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on